Journal

Notes from the water

Honest writing about northern Norway — what it looks like, what it feels like, and why the less obvious places are usually the best ones.

Segla mountain rising from the Senja fjord — dramatic and entirely uncrowded

5 min read

Senja, Not Lofoten

Lofoten is spectacular. It is also heaving. The island you want is two hours further east, and almost nobody knows about it yet.

Golden midnight sun light over a harbour and calm fjord

4 min read

The Midnight Sun Nobody's Photographing

The famous version is a hotel rooftop and a hundred people with tripods. The real version is an empty fjord at 11pm and light that stops you thinking.

Fishing boat on the Arctic water at a vivid orange sunset

5 min read

Fishing for Real, Not for a Photo

There is a version of Arctic fishing that is a prop. And there is the version where you are actually on the water, hauling in a line, with no guarantee of anything.